![]() ![]() Which slicer will be determined by what kind of 3D printer you have and what you use it for. Now that we know what a slicer does, we can talk about which ones are the best to use. Many many more settings that can be tweakedīasically, everything that makes your printer useful is told to it by the slicer, so it is the most important piece of software you can own.How much material to extrude in each layer.Where the print head should be at any given second.How much infill is required for the model.A printer is essentially a sophisticated plotting machine that moves to certain coordinates told to it by the slicer in the form of something called GCODE.Ī slicer does exactly what it sounds like It cuts a 3D model into small "sliced" layers that are printed individually but stacked on top of each other. OBJ - into a file that is usable by your 3D printer. What is a slicer for 3D printing?Ī slicer is a piece of software for your PC, Mac, or laptop that can convert a 3D model file - normally with the file extension. Obviously, having the best 3D printer is great, but did you know you also need specific software to make a 3D model ready for printing? These programs are called slicers, and they are essential for making your 3D printer, well, 3D print. I AM concerned about the proprietary software issue, but since I have zero 3d printer experience I just e know how big of a problem this is.There are a lot of moving parts when it comes to 3D printing. It will be in my living space and to be blunt, I'm trying to keep the spouse happy. I also like the idea of it being factory enclosed just for the sake of it being a little more tidy. Realistically I think a decent DIY enclosure with a HEPA filter might cost $250, and a pre-made mk3s+ is $1k. I did think about building my own enclosure but acrylic is actually pretty expensive and the prusa is also a little bit more expensive. But, yes, the Adventurer 4 is at a good price point.I did see the 3d printer general review, but it seems like almost all of the YouTube reviews are sponsored and call me skeptical but.I don't know. Have you thought about enclosing a Prusa I3 Mk3S+ or even an Ender 3? ![]() If you haven't seen it, 3D Printer General has a review of a prototype (so caveat emptor): However, someone is working on integrating Flashforge printers into Cura. The proprietary nozzles and slicer are big turn offs for me. If your prints do not require very print details - for example, text that is close to the nozzle size in dimensions, then I expect, sight unseen, you would be pleased with this printer. The specifications of the Adventurer 4 look pretty good, and I think it is likely that it will be a plug and play 3d printer which meets one of your requirements. The latest version of Flashprint is quite nice, but the print quality of fine details does not seem to match the quality you get from Cura or PrusaSlicer. Using Cura may be possible but I have not gotten this to work yet. Unfortunately, it seems Simplif圓d, which is a paid slicer, is struggling to keep its software up to date. Historically if you did not like Flashprint, the Flashforge proprietary slicer, you could use Simplif圓d. This limits the slicer you can use with Flashforge printers. With the Flashforge variation of Sailfish, their print files consist of gcode with a binary header. My primary concern about Flashforge is that they do not use Marlin in their devices, they use a variation of Sailfish. Flashforge did an excellent job of simplifying the complex calibration requirements inherent in this architecture. The Creator Pro 2 is an IDEX (dual print head) 3d printer. Based on that experience, it is clear that Flashforge builds solid devices with good but not outstanding specifications. ![]() I have no experience with the Flashforge Adventurer 4, but I have done a review of the Creator Pro 2. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |